TOPICS . TREE-VIEW . SEARCH . LAST: 1 | 3 | 7 DAYS . HELP! . PROFILE . REGISTER . CHAT  

What have you done to your early A to...

The Early A-Body Forum » General Discussions » What have you done to your early A today! users admin

  ClosedClosed: New threads not accepted on this page Last Poster Posts Pages Last Post
Archive through July 07, 201364_barracuda20 7-07-13  5:26 pm
Archive through October 14, 201364ragtop20 10-14-13  7:29 pm
Archive through February 21, 201464ragtop20 2-21-14  10:26 pm
Archive through September 23, 201465silverfish20 9-23-14  11:51 am
Archive through June 12, 201565silverfish20 6-12-15  10:37 am
Archive through September 08, 2015Fstfish6620 9-08-15  5:58 pm
Archive through November 21, 2015Mdoman20 11-21-15  2:41 pm
  ClosedClosed: New threads not accepted on this page        

Author Message
65silverfish
Advanced Member
Post Number: 44
Registered: 9-2014


Tuesday, November 24, 2015 - 7:56 am   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
Can you send a pic of the UBJ/spindle and the threads without the castle nut in place? I too would not want to modify the castle nut in order to gain thread engagement on the ball joint.
426 LA Stroker (Hughes), Alter-K-tion front end, Tremec TKO-600, hydraulic clutch, 8 3/4 w/3.55's, 245/45-R17 and 315/35-R17, 8-point roll bar and mini-tubbed. Previous best ET 11.82@119mph on 255/45-17 (pre-minitub) street tires
65silverfish
Advanced Member
Post Number: 45
Registered: 9-2014


Tuesday, November 24, 2015 - 8:04 am   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
Painted the sway bar components and reinstalled last night. I'm ready to move on to the engine compartment (the original goal)! So surreal to see shocks back on the car. Haven't been there since I removed the original gas tank months ago!



Rear bar paintedRear bar painted 2rear bar with shocks
426 LA Stroker (Hughes), Alter-K-tion front end, Tremec TKO-600, hydraulic clutch, 8 3/4 w/3.55's, 245/45-R17 and 315/35-R17, 8-point roll bar and mini-tubbed. Previous best ET 11.82@119mph on 255/45-17 (pre-minitub) street tires
65silverfish
Advanced Member
Post Number: 46
Registered: 9-2014


Saturday, November 28, 2015 - 8:36 am   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
Finally! Moving on to the reason for all the surgery: EFI time!!!

Yesterday drained coolant and stripped the intake. Will clean surfaces today (hopefully) and install new intake.

Beforedistributor removedcarb removedintake removed
426 LA Stroker (Hughes), Alter-K-tion front end, Tremec TKO-600, hydraulic clutch, 8 3/4 w/3.55's, 245/45-R17 and 315/35-R17, 8-point roll bar and mini-tubbed. Previous best ET 11.82@119mph on 255/45-17 (pre-minitub) street tires
65silverfish
Advanced Member
Post Number: 47
Registered: 9-2014


Saturday, November 28, 2015 - 2:45 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
Test fit.

EFITest fit 1Test fit 2Test fit 3
426 LA Stroker (Hughes), Alter-K-tion front end, Tremec TKO-600, hydraulic clutch, 8 3/4 w/3.55's, 245/45-R17 and 315/35-R17, 8-point roll bar and mini-tubbed. Previous best ET 11.82@119mph on 255/45-17 (pre-minitub) street tires
Fstfish66
Senior Member
Post Number: 693
Registered: 3-2007


Saturday, November 28, 2015 - 8:52 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
am i not seeing that rear equalizer /sway bar correctly ? doesnt look near enough support for all the action that bar will be seeeing
1940 dodge street rod red ram hemi
1966 barracuda super charged 340 4 speed
2002 dodge cummins 4x4 dailey driver
2008 chrysler pacifica
Mdoman
Member
Post Number: 13
Registered: 4-2008
Sunday, November 29, 2015 - 6:20 am   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
I finally got this attachment thing figured out. So I'm going to show what the Silver Fish is asking.
Lock nut
This is with the supplied lock nut. You can see that the threads don't come to the end of the nut.
Castle nut
This is with the Castle nut tightened down. You can see that the hole is barely visible. I haven't tried to see if half of the cotter pin would fit. Maybe if I use lacing wire that would work. I could just mark it, cut down the nut and do it that way.
The ultimate sign of intelligence is dealing with those who have none.
Mdoman
Member
Post Number: 14
Registered: 4-2008
Sunday, November 29, 2015 - 6:27 am   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
I need to know what you guys think. Should I use the Valiant turn signal light or get the headlights that have the turn signal in them. I'm going to use the Blue driving lights where the turn signals reside.
Driving light
This one is with the turn signal mounted on the valance like a Valiant.
Turn signal
The ultimate sign of intelligence is dealing with those who have none.
65silverfish
Advanced Member
Post Number: 48
Registered: 9-2014


Sunday, November 29, 2015 - 10:00 am   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
I'll respond to three messages at once.

FSTFISH66: The 4x2 box tube is welded on three sides attached to the rear framerails. The cross tube as designed by the manufacturer is attached with three sets of welded tabs (two fore and one aft) to prevent rotation. I am guessing that because you can't see the two sets of tabs in the front position in these images it might look a little strange. There are 2 sets of tabs welded to the rear housing for the heim joints. It should be plenty sturdy considering most rear sways bolt to the rear framerails with 3/8" bolts and that's it. Am I missing something in your question?

MDOMAN: If it was me I would fill the headlight buckets with another set of road lamps, I think a 4 lamp setup would be solid, and use the Valiant turnsignal housings you are showing. When I installed the Valiant grill in my Fish (hey, it saved 10 pounds) I installed a small set of LEDs in the lower valence.

Regarding your balljoint question, I am wondering if since the kit uses B-body spindles (I think I remember seeing that in one of your earlier posts) if you should look at B-body ball joints: are the threaded posts longer? I would be more worried about the potential taper mismatch than the thread engagement. Good luck!

I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving!
426 LA Stroker (Hughes), Alter-K-tion front end, Tremec TKO-600, hydraulic clutch, 8 3/4 w/3.55's, 245/45-R17 and 315/35-R17, 8-point roll bar and mini-tubbed. Previous best ET 11.82@119mph on 255/45-17 (pre-minitub) street tires
65silverfish
Advanced Member
Post Number: 49
Registered: 9-2014


Sunday, November 29, 2015 - 10:19 am   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
FSTFISH66: Here's an earlier shot of the components where you can see the two front (and outermost) tabs on the sway bar housing before I welded the crossbeam in place. I hope this helps.

swaybar prior to welding
426 LA Stroker (Hughes), Alter-K-tion front end, Tremec TKO-600, hydraulic clutch, 8 3/4 w/3.55's, 245/45-R17 and 315/35-R17, 8-point roll bar and mini-tubbed. Previous best ET 11.82@119mph on 255/45-17 (pre-minitub) street tires
Mdoman
Member
Post Number: 15
Registered: 4-2008
Monday, November 30, 2015 - 6:47 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
If I change the ubj I have to change the control arms. I'm using the stock control arms and a tapered bushing to compensate for the b body spindle which uses the larger ball joint. I'm not into spending 300 for that and some companies want you to use their spindles so that means even more cash out. I know it sounds kinda cheap but I'm on a budget and I don't want to spend no more than I have to. I'm gonna grind a little on the castle nut I don't think that I'll have to grind too much to make a difference and just add the cotter pin or lacing wire.
Mike
The ultimate sign of intelligence is dealing with those who have none.
Mojack
Senior Member
Post Number: 409
Registered: 2-2002


Tuesday, December 01, 2015 - 3:57 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
Most larger 4wd shops will have a tapered reamer to enlarge ball joint and tie rod tapers. Maybe you could have the tapered bushing opened up to allow a deeper engagement. Just don't go too far so that something bottoms out.
Fstfish66
Senior Member
Post Number: 694
Registered: 3-2007


Wednesday, December 02, 2015 - 10:09 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
to fix your ball joint problem at a reasonable price,look around for 1973 and up,upper control arms A body, they will fit your early A and use the bigger easier to find ball joint, search junk years,or put a wanted add over on FORABODIESONLY or moparts the ball joint will be longer and bigger in diameter,stronger,,i think firm feel or afco makes a stock type upper control arm,not tublar replacement,,
1940 dodge street rod red ram hemi
1966 barracuda super charged 340 4 speed
2002 dodge cummins 4x4 dailey driver
2008 chrysler pacifica
Fstfish66
Senior Member
Post Number: 695
Registered: 3-2007


Wednesday, December 02, 2015 - 10:13 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
just an idea,,mark the cotter pin notch on the nut and use a dremel to grind the notch deeper to allow the full cotter pin to slide thru, that way you dont have to grind the nut and loose thread engaugement
1940 dodge street rod red ram hemi
1966 barracuda super charged 340 4 speed
2002 dodge cummins 4x4 dailey driver
2008 chrysler pacifica
65silverfish
Advanced Member
Post Number: 50
Registered: 9-2014


Monday, December 21, 2015 - 1:11 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
Update: EFI Intake installed, fuel cell strapped down and plumbing from rear to front of car in progress.

Hiccup: Wiring harness from Edelbrock had connector for the throttle position sensor (TPS) that did not match. A few phone calls to tech team at Edelbrock resolved issue, and an adapter harness arrived at my doorstep within days. Two thumbs up to their applications engineers!

Hiccup #2: shipped smaller 29 lb/hr injectors (unused) along with a money order to cover restocking to Edelbrock in exchange for 35 lb/hr set as recommended by their applications engineers. UPS lost the box. Two thumbs down for UPS...............

Purchased another set of injectors from Summit so project is back on track for progress the week between Xmas and New Years.

I hope you are having luck with your front suspension assembly Mdoman.

Pics to follow.............
426 LA Stroker (Hughes), Alter-K-tion front end, Tremec TKO-600, hydraulic clutch, 8 3/4 w/3.55's, 245/45-R17 and 315/35-R17, 8-point roll bar and mini-tubbed. Previous best ET 11.82@119mph on 255/45-17 (pre-minitub) street tires
65silverfish
Senior Member
Post Number: 52
Registered: 9-2014


Monday, January 04, 2016 - 2:56 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
Update on EFI: System fired up and running on 1/03/16!! Still need to perform the tedious tuning throughout the RPM range but at least it started and ran!! Here are a few pics.
Hard fule lines (Supply and Return)Fuel cell plumbedComplete systemThrottle body and linkage
426 LA Stroker (Hughes), Alter-K-tion front end, Tremec TKO-600, hydraulic clutch, 8 3/4 w/3.55's, 245/45-R17 and 315/35-R17, 8-point roll bar and mini-tubbed. Previous best ET 11.82@119mph on 255/45-17 (pre-minitub) street tires
65silverfish
Senior Member
Post Number: 53
Registered: 9-2014


Tuesday, January 05, 2016 - 3:42 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
I had to attach a link to a couple videos. Starting to tune next..........

http://vid453.photobucket.com/albums/qq256/65Silverfish/Cuda/EFI%20Installation/IMG_8404.mp4

http://vid453.photobucket.com/albums/qq256/65Silverfish/Cuda/EFI%20Installation/IMG_8400.mp4
426 LA Stroker (Hughes), Alter-K-tion front end, Tremec TKO-600, hydraulic clutch, 8 3/4 w/3.55's, 245/45-R17 and 315/35-R17, 8-point roll bar and mini-tubbed. Previous best ET 11.82@119mph on 255/45-17 (pre-minitub) street tires
Mdoman
Member
Post Number: 16
Registered: 4-2008
Sunday, January 31, 2016 - 6:07 am   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
With the weather finally getting a little warmer and me getting rid of the sickness that has gone around I finally got the car back on the ground. Working out of a car port sucks. After 14 months of being perched on jack stands. So what do you think? Too high in the front? The engine and trans are in the car.
fish
The ultimate sign of intelligence is dealing with those who have none.
Mojack
Senior Member
Post Number: 411
Registered: 2-2002


Sunday, January 31, 2016 - 4:23 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
You'll be putting the hood out there from the roof, so that might help a little. I took a few rounds out of my torsion bar adjusters to lower the front just because I like it and to match the "time lowered" rear springs.
Fstfish66
Senior Member
Post Number: 699
Registered: 3-2007


Monday, February 01, 2016 - 3:36 am   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
looks good to me
1940 dodge street rod red ram hemi
1966 barracuda super charged 340 4 speed
2002 dodge cummins 4x4 dailey driver
2008 chrysler pacifica

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a private posting area. Only registered users and moderators may post messages here.
Password:
Options: Automatically activate URLs in message
Action: