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Motor Mount Pads/Insulators

The Early A-Body Forum » General Discussions » Archive through May 15, 2008 » Motor Mount Pads/Insulators users admin

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Clifcuda65
Senior Member
Post Number: 101
Registered: 1-2002


Tuesday, April 22, 2008 - 5:08 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
I drive my 4 speed pretty hard at times... Launching at 3 grand plus when needed if the pavement will handle it... Well, I have replace motor mount pads quite a few times over the years and they are getting harder and harder to find. So, I called Michael Schumacher to see what he had. Originally I was hoping for Poly-Loc direct replacement pads like he has for the Big Block and HEMI cars... Well, not till maybe late summer for those he told me, but he did have some new rubber early A-Body pads for $18.00 bucks each... and he did have the two stud Polyurethane Tranny Mount... Yeah baby! And at even the $79.00 for that, I did not blink as I was tired of chasing the HURST shifter.

While I had him on the phone... I got the Wiper Seal kit as well...

Boy that tranny mount looks slick !

Currently I am getting ready to change out my Clutch and drop my oil pan and reseal it... And waiting on a "test" Muffler (Straight Thru) for the stock EARLY 65 Commando exhaust system that John H. of RI has been working on with a muffler manufacturer... While down under there... I'm cleaning and painting some of the bottom end stuff.. So it seemed to be the right time to replace all the mounts!A-Body early Motor mount pads
Neilb
Administrator
Post Number: 1079
Registered: 12-2001


Tuesday, April 22, 2008 - 5:56 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
Wow, those motor mounts are nice! Do you mean Schumacher Creative Services at www.engine-swaps.com ?

I bought these crappy Korean made ones from National Moparts here in Canada for $50 each I think it was, and the studs don't line up with the holes in the metal mounts quite right...piss me off. I never used them. I have a used set on the car right now.

Korean made mounts

Korean made mounts2

Korean made mounts3
'65 Barracuda Formula S
Ottawa, Ontario
http://cuda.enbcom.com
Clifcuda65
Senior Member
Post Number: 102
Registered: 1-2002


Tuesday, April 22, 2008 - 6:41 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
Year,that's his web site, but the early A-Body rubber mounts are not listed there. Now I just got them, they look real good... But, I have not installed them yet! So, fit has not been tested.
My mounts do have the 2338 number on them and "RC" but I do not see made in Korea on them anywhere. And it's on the long side, not the ends like what you have pictured.

I hope they fit... Now you got me worried Neil..
Neilb
Administrator
Post Number: 1081
Registered: 12-2001


Tuesday, April 22, 2008 - 6:48 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
I have some spare mounts I could photograph to show you what I mean. The studs on the rubber biscuits don't line up with the holes in the mounts. To make them fit I'd have to hog out the holes in the mounts a little, not a big deal really..I wouldn't worry.

I have a pair of worn original rubbers here too, they have the Mopar symbol and a part number of 2465508 on them.
'65 Barracuda Formula S
Ottawa, Ontario
http://cuda.enbcom.com
Keith_mopar
Senior Member
Post Number: 115
Registered: 1-2006


Wednesday, April 23, 2008 - 3:04 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
Neil I bought those same crap mount from Korea from National Moparts. I called them back and told them about the fit, so they said they would sell me the ones from Schumacher, as long as I paid for return shipping. I then opted for the complete mount since I'm putting in a 360.
Keith Mopar
99-Ram 96-Avenger 91-Shadow 91-Daytona 89-Shadow 74-Duster 65-Cuda 92 Lebaron convertible
www.moparmagic.net
64ragtop
Senior Member
Post Number: 227
Registered: 1-2006


Wednesday, April 23, 2008 - 3:21 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
Kieth, are those the Schumacher rubber mounts? They sure don't give ya much extra stud length in case some shimming is needed. Does National Moparts sell at the Schumacher's price, or is there a discount?

Thanks!
Given sufficient thrust, pigs fly quite well!
Keith_mopar
Senior Member
Post Number: 116
Registered: 1-2006


Wednesday, April 23, 2008 - 6:00 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
Yea, they are the Schumacher rubber mounts and They sell at the Schumacher price. Defiantly not much room for a spacer, But on the trial fit the motor was very close to level, and a perfect bolt up to the motor.
Keith Mopar
99-Ram 96-Avenger 91-Shadow 91-Daytona 89-Shadow 74-Duster 65-Cuda 92 Lebaron convertible
www.moparmagic.net
Blues65
Member
Post Number: 14
Registered: 3-2007


Monday, April 28, 2008 - 10:58 am   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
I used the Schumacher mounts and they did line up & level the motor Ok but when I engaged the clutch the wimpy isolator and long brackets allowed the motor to move forward (I am running a 10.95 Scallop clutch and the pedal pressure is greater than with stock 9.5 inch (Borg& Beck) or 10.5 inch diaphragm style clutch) I wound up modifying the stock 273 Motor mounts.
Paul
"No one gets out of this place without singing the Blues"
Neilb
Administrator
Post Number: 1091
Registered: 12-2001


Monday, April 28, 2008 - 12:54 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
There's discussion in some archives about motor mounts, found here -> http://www.earlyabodyforum.com/board/messages/2/456.html

I have a modified set for a 340, I'll post a picture later.
'65 Barracuda Formula S
Ottawa, Ontario
http://cuda.enbcom.com
Neilb
Administrator
Post Number: 1092
Registered: 12-2001


Monday, April 28, 2008 - 3:31 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
Here's my passenger side early a-body 273 mounts. Original on the right, modified on the left. You'll notice the left one has a piece welded to it, mirroring the opposite side. This will make it connect to the 3 bolt holes on a 340 block.

340 mount
'65 Barracuda Formula S
Ottawa, Ontario
http://cuda.enbcom.com
Blues65
Member
Post Number: 15
Registered: 3-2007


Monday, April 28, 2008 - 4:03 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
Yep, thatís what I used also and I believe itís a much better solution, especially for manual transmission applications.
Paul
"No one gets out of this place without singing the Blues"
Clifcuda65
Senior Member
Post Number: 105
Registered: 1-2002


Monday, April 28, 2008 - 9:09 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
If your motor moved forward... Your Tranny mount may have been shot?
Also, The A-body firewall needs a brace for those stiff high static load clutches... (You probably already have this mod or something like it?) That firewall really flexes quite a bit. The brace needs to go from one of the lower bolts on the master cylinder to the shock tower support. That's per a mopar race bulletin for the early A-Bodies. And it does work and makes possible those power shifts at 7200 RPM... That's what I use to shift my 340 car at when I raced at Suffolk Raceway many years ago. (When I worked for Ed Miller Racing Enterprises and could balance my motors for free...)

I use the stock short stubby mounts like Neil has pictured above... just not modified for the 340 since I still run the 273 Commando. The isolator pads fit fine, but I like that Polly Tranny mount... I still want the "Polly-Loc" isolators when they come out for this application.... They will be a direct replacement using the stock motor brackets that come on the 273. The cheap rubber isolators just don't cut it for very long... My two cents
Codfish
Advanced Member
Post Number: 34
Registered: 9-2007
Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 3:41 am   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
I thought they ran HORSES at Suffolk!
Clifcuda65
Senior Member
Post Number: 107
Registered: 1-2002


Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 5:56 am   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
They once had a drag strip there... they bulldozed it for a housing development a number of years ago... But Suffolk's concrete starting line was famous for great launches...or breaking drive lines!

I miss that track! I can take a picture of my "Home Track License plate" if you would like if you want proof the track existed??
Fstfish66
Senior Member
Post Number: 127
Registered: 3-2007


Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 6:00 am   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
when i had a brace for the fire wall it went from the master cyl,mount to the top of the steering box,,,worked well
1940 dodge street rod red ram hemi
1966 barracuda super charged 340 4 speed
2002 dodge cummins 4x4 dailey driver
2006 chrysler pacifica
Blues65
Member
Post Number: 16
Registered: 3-2007


Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 6:57 am   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
Thanks Cliff, my copy of the old MoPar racing bulletins never mentioned the reinforcement brace but it is a great Idea, did you use some kind of an angle iron brace? I was able to get ďmostĒ of the flexing out with the modified 273 mounts (keeps the fan away from the radiator) but I still had enough concern to consider dumping the scallop clutch configuration (although it really works great). I had a diaphragm clutch in when I originally installed the 10.5 inch clutch setup but even with an extra return spring the clutch pedal still occasionally stuck to the floor.
Paul
"No one gets out of this place without singing the Blues"
Clifcuda65
Senior Member
Post Number: 109
Registered: 1-2002


Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 4:03 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
The bracket I used "I think" came from a slant 6 lower bell housing to block support brace... I know it's longer then the one that comes on the 273. You just straighten the small end (the one shown in the first picture is before it's straightened) that goes to the side of the shock tower bolting though that channel brace that supports the Shock using a "Stubby Grade 8" 1/2 bolt. The other end just bolts to the lower corner ... A spacer is recommended to reduce the larger bracket hole size down to that of the MC.

Using this factory made brace, makes everything look stock... Very few catch it... Yet, it makes a world of difference as to how the high static pressure plate works at those high RPM's...
brace
Brace installed
Clifcuda65
Senior Member
Post Number: 110
Registered: 1-2002


Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 4:12 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
Okay, Found a picture of my 340 with the solid (aluminum) motor mounts... The ultimate no rock-a-bout motor solution... this was in my 1963 Valiant with 1965 cuda front clip. I still have those motor mount... Just wish I still had that car!
Picture was taken about 1972.... sniff~
340 motor 1973
Blues65
Member
Post Number: 17
Registered: 3-2007


Wednesday, April 30, 2008 - 6:58 am   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
Thanks Cliff, I was going out to the Junk yards this weekend, should be able to locate something that will work with the information you provided. Never could understand how the tech bulletin could point to the scallop clutch as an upgrade but never seem to notice it caused firewall flexing, maybe my copy is an older version (a guy at work gave the bulletins to me 20 years ago, when he notice I drove a 65 Barracuda to work).
Paul
"No one gets out of this place without singing the Blues"
Blues65
Member
Post Number: 18
Registered: 3-2007


Friday, May 02, 2008 - 5:23 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
Hay Cliff, I found the bracket (didnít even have to unbolt it) and straightened the end to line up to the shock tower.
I am assuming that the tower end is anchored to the sheet metal and that I must match drill the tower.
It will be a challenge to get the hole placement correct with out pulling the header.

Paul
"No one gets out of this place without singing the Blues"
Clifcuda65
Senior Member
Post Number: 115
Registered: 1-2002


Friday, May 02, 2008 - 7:00 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
Blue65,
Lucky find... That's it! Here is a picture from under the wheel well looking at the "Brace Nut" just right of the shock... Yes, Placement is the "Trick" and maybe this picture will help...

You might just want to drill a very small hole first once you "think" you have found location... Easy if headers are off and you have a right angle drill motor... You maybe should remove the shock first.Brace nut
Blues65
Member
Post Number: 19
Registered: 3-2007


Friday, May 02, 2008 - 8:09 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
Thanks again Cliff, The pictures and great advice will solve a long standing problem.
Paul
"No one gets out of this place without singing the Blues"
64ragtop
Senior Member
Post Number: 241
Registered: 1-2006


Saturday, May 03, 2008 - 1:57 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
Clif, did Schumacher say that the "Polly-Loc" isolaters would be available in their kits? My old rubber ones are cracked, but holding. I've wanted to get their kit, 'cause I don't know how the previous owner did the /6 to 318 conversion. He had some "interesting" patches/fixes that I've been finding and correcting. When I saw the "Polly-Loc" isolaters in Schumachers' ad in a magazine, I thought I'd rather just do that job one time.
Given sufficient thrust, pigs fly quite well!
Clifcuda65
Senior Member
Post Number: 116
Registered: 1-2002


Saturday, May 03, 2008 - 2:46 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
Bob,

Schumacher said in E-Mail, (QUOTE) "The Poly-Loc mounts that would apply to your situation are not quite
ready yet. We think that they should be available around late summer. They would directly replace your rubber insulators and wouldn't require different metal brackets."

You do realize the /6 uses the "same" rubber insulator pads as the 273 did for our early A-Bodies... So Yeah, Poly-Loc sounds like a good answer as to how I would go... I LIKE stuff like that!