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Brake Line Distribution Block

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Cbusheyjr
Senior Member
Post Number: 59
Registered: 11-2009
Thursday, September 15, 2016 - 3:11 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
I have been having a heck of time with my brake lines and trying to keep them from leaking. I haven't been able to successfully bleed the new lines due to the leaks at the front distribution block. The first leak issues I had were due to faulty flares. Once I got those taken care of I still had leaks so I took the block out so that I could look at it closer and clean it if needed, but when I put it back in the car all connections now leak and I cannot stop them. The leaks are between the tube and the fitting, not from the threads. My guess is that I need to replace the block but I have not been able to find one that matches my configuration. The ones at Classic Industries none of them match what I have. I am attaching a picture of the block. Does anyone have any suggestions for me to stop the leaking or where I can find a new block that matches? Oh, I guess I should add that this is for a 66 Barracuda with the standard drum brakes.
Distribution Block 1Distribution Block 2
Fstfish66
Senior Member
Post Number: 711
Registered: 3-2007


Friday, September 16, 2016 - 4:57 am   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
sounds to me like the flare is not the same degree as your junction block,,,or the flares are not straight,meening the tube was cut on and angel not straight and that will make a bad flare, or did you possibly over tighten it and tear the flare ?
1940 dodge street rod red ram hemi
1966 barracuda super charged 340 4 speed
2002 dodge cummins 4x4 dailey driver
2008 chrysler pacifica
Cbusheyjr
Senior Member
Post Number: 60
Registered: 11-2009
Friday, September 16, 2016 - 9:20 am   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
Well I knew to be careful to not over tighten so I only snugged them up at first. The first set of tubes that I got did have bad flares on them - looked like they used the wrong size tool because there were big indentations on the tube itself, and those did have cracks in them. I have since gotten a new set and looking at these under a magnifier they all looked good. So as they leaked, I did try to tighten them more and more but with no results.

What should the angle be and how can I check those. I hate to have to pull these all out again but I guess I have no choice - it ain't going to work the way it is. :-(
Fstfish66
Senior Member
Post Number: 712
Registered: 3-2007


Friday, September 16, 2016 - 11:27 am   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
\blue im not sure whats going on,cant imagine all the flares are bad a second time,im assuming you bought these pre made ? and ill assume you dont have a bender or flareing tool ? its not hard to make your own,,,i only can think of one way to check it,, it would be a lot of fooling around,if you bought a short piece at the auto parts store, and a double female for each line put the store bought piece in the block, then the double female, then the lines that are leaking see if it leaks at the block or at the double female and where the premade lines meet,,,if you follow me,,}
1940 dodge street rod red ram hemi
1966 barracuda super charged 340 4 speed
2002 dodge cummins 4x4 dailey driver
2008 chrysler pacifica
Cbusheyjr
Senior Member
Post Number: 61
Registered: 11-2009
Friday, September 16, 2016 - 4:42 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
Thanks. Yes I think I follow you. Not sure where I can find the parts, but it sounds like a reasonable suggestion. Yes, I bought the lines pre made through Classic Industries and the parts were an exact match to the originals. And no, I do not have a flaring tool for making double flares - I have a single flare tool. And I do not have a bending tool but I have been know to make some improvisions that work pretty well. I'm not sure if I have the room at the block area for all the extra pieces - everything is pretty close quarters, but I think I can figure something out. I'll let you know what happens - may be a few days however.
Mojack
Senior Member
Post Number: 416
Registered: 2-2002


Friday, September 16, 2016 - 4:43 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
My experience with a used dist. block is that sometimes the flare on the old tubing has indented the brass seat in the block. Then when you try and seat a new piece of tubing it leaks past the old indentions. Usually cranking it down a little tighter works.
C_onvx4
Member
Post Number: 14
Registered: 8-2013


Saturday, September 17, 2016 - 9:42 am   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
Are these stainless lines or steel? I would use a line wrench, not an open end wrench, and a hold back wrench to put the hurt on them till they sealed up.
Fstfish66
Senior Member
Post Number: 713
Registered: 3-2007


Saturday, September 17, 2016 - 10:37 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
i know it will be tight adding tubbing but only thing i could think of to check it all you have to do is one leaking line, if it stops at the double female and still leakes at the block then u know its the block,,,,or the flares are bad for what ever reason,good luck
1940 dodge street rod red ram hemi
1966 barracuda super charged 340 4 speed
2002 dodge cummins 4x4 dailey driver
2008 chrysler pacifica
Cbusheyjr
Senior Member
Post Number: 62
Registered: 11-2009
Wednesday, September 21, 2016 - 11:21 am   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
C_onvx4 - the lines are stainless. My understanding is that stainless can crack if you try to tighten too much. I always use line wrenches when doing this - when I was younger I learned the hard way.
Cbusheyjr
Senior Member
Post Number: 63
Registered: 11-2009
Sunday, October 02, 2016 - 4:17 pm   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
So the verdict is that the distribution block has issues. I did the test that Fstfish66 suggested, photo attached. With this setup it leaked at the block but not at the new line fitting. I thought that I would try another potential fix by getting a Male/Female adapter that had the same threads, but the only thing I could find was a Bubble Flare fitting. I gut off the bubble end, smoothed out and flattened the end. I then made a counter sink to fit over the flare in the block - the idea was to only create a flat surface contact not a flare contact. I really reefed it in there assuming that brass on brass they would mesh together, but that didn't work, it slowly leaked around the threads of the adapter. So now I have to continue looking for a distribution block to replace mine. If anyone sees or knows about an available part let me know.

Brake Line Test
Fstfish66
Senior Member
Post Number: 714
Registered: 3-2007


Tuesday, October 04, 2016 - 5:21 am   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPMove Post (Moderator/Admin Only)   
well glad you were able to figure it out,that block is nothing special, but your prebent lines are what makes you need to replace it with exact replacement,,,my first thought would be napa, or rock auto,,since 1967 was first year of mandatory dual master cylinder, your search will be roughly from 1960 thru 1966, ide look at rock auto at all makes cars of that size, mustang camaro,nova,fairlane ide be willing to bet some oen else used the same exact block,,ide look at laysons resterations web site,,, or any of the aftermarket braks companys see if they can help you,,my guess layson or a good search at rock auto will get you something useable,, or check over on www.forAbodiesonly some one there may know
1940 dodge street rod red ram hemi
1966 barracuda super charged 340 4 speed
2002 dodge cummins 4x4 dailey driver
2008 chrysler pacifica

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